香奈儿的由来
创始人:Gabrielle Chanel (加布里埃夏奈尔)
注册地:法国巴黎(1913年)
设计师: 1913年-1971年,Gabrielle Chanel (加布里埃夏奈尔)
设计理念: 高雅、简洁、精美
中国分店 : 共两家,分别位于北京、上海
夏奈尔身世简介 加布里埃香奈尔有一段很不愉快的童年。她的父亲是兜售杂货的小贩,母亲是个村妇。1883年夏奈尔出世时,父母尚未正式结婚,她对自己是个私生女这件事始终耿耿于怀。夏奈尔12岁时母亲去世,父亲抛下了他们五个兄弟姐妹,自此不知去向。这残酷的事实,使她在以后的日子里,总要极力的掩饰那段悲惨的童年生活。 之后她在修道院的收容所里,度过了暗淡的少女岁月。18岁离开修道院后,几经周折,她尝试过各种不同的工作,甚至有一小段歌唱生涯。据说这也是她的别名CoCo Chanel的由来。
25岁那年,她遇到了生命中的第一位情人---巴桑,使她的命运有了转机。巴桑是一位贵族的后裔,他令芳华正茂的夏奈尔倾倒,但碍于当时的社会环境,两人无法正式结合。然而夏奈尔却凭此开始挤身上流社会。聪明的她很快就周旋于王孙贵族之间,稍后经过巴桑的介绍,夏奈尔邂逅了她一生中最重要的男人Arthur Capel----她此生的至爱。
Capel出身卑微,为一情妇之子,虽凭借自己的奋斗,在商场上大展宏图,并于第一次世界大战后当上《凡尔塞条约》的政治秘书,成为一介名流,但却因自己的卑微身世而觉得非取个名门闺秀不可。他对夏奈尔虽然一片真心,但最终还是舍弃了夏奈尔,远赴英伦与一名爵士的千金成婚。此举伤透了夏奈尔的心。为了补偿对夏奈尔的歉疚,Capel出资让她在巴黎开了一间女帽店,这便是夏奈尔事业的起点。 引用香奈儿一句话:“我不能理解女人为何不能只是为了表现礼貌,出门前都好好打扮一下,每一天谁知道会不会是命中注定的大日子?”女人的时尚、女人的香奈儿精神,让这个世界更加美丽缤纷 品牌简介: 创始人Gabrielle Chanel香奈尔于1913年在法国巴黎创立夏奈尔,香奈尔的产品种类繁多,有服装、珠宝饰品、配件、化妆品、香水,每一种产品都闻名遐迩,特别是她的香水与时装。
香奈尔(CHANEL)是一个有80多年经历的著名品牌,香奈尔时装永远有着高雅、简洁、精美的风格,她善于突破传统,早40年代就成功地将“五花大绑”的女装推向简单、舒适,这也许就是最早的现代休闲服。
1913年开设女帽及时装店制作服装;
1921年起开发各式香水:如1921年的no5香水和no22香水,
1924年的cuirderussie香水,1970年的no19香水,
1974年的cristalle香水,1984年的coco香水,1990年的egoiste男用香水,
1996年的allure香水;另外还有各类饰品,化妆品,皮件,手表,珠宝,太阳眼镜和鞋各类配件。
品牌延续: 香奈尔逝世后,1983年起由设计天才卡尔 拉格菲尔(KARL LAGERFELD)接班。卡尔拉格菲尔有着自由、任意和轻松的设计心态,他总是不可思议地把两种对立的艺术品感觉统一在设计中,既奔放又端庄,既有法国人的浪漫、诙谐,又有德国式的严谨、精致。他没有不变的造型线和偏爱的色彩,但从他的设计中自始至终都能领会到“香奈尔”的纯正风范。 品牌识别:
①双c在chanel服装的扣子或皮件的扣环上,可以很容易地就发现将cocochanel的双c交叠而设计出来的标志,这更是让chanel迷们为之疯狂的“精神象征”。
②菱形格纹:从第一代chanel皮件越来越受到喜爱之后,其立体的菱形车格纹竟也逐渐成为chanel的标志之一,不断被运用在chanel新款的服装和皮件上。后来甚至被运用到手表的设计上,尤其是“matelassee”系列,k金与不锈钢的金属表带,甚至都塑形成立体的“菱形格纹”。
③山茶花:chanel对“山茶花”的情有独钟现在对于全世界而言,“山茶花”已经等于是chanel王国的“国花”。不论是春夏或是秋冬,它除了被设计成各种质材的山茶花饰品之外,更经常被运用在服装的布料图案上 香水:香奈儿5号我的幸运数字 香奈儿5号是香奈儿女士的幸运数字,当时她在众多香水样品中,选择了第5支香水,她说:“这就是我要的。一种截然不同于以往的香水、一种女人的香水,一位气味香浓,令人难忘的女人。”
但这种有意的对数W的迷信很有可能让她错过了真正的好香水。对香味的定夺,不仅需要一个有超级感受力的鼻子,而且还需要一种无杂念的心境。而香奈儿5号诞生时香奈儿女士已经是个不甚快乐的人了…… 香奈儿女士对香水的理念是:“香水要强烈得像一记耳光那样令人难忘。”以这个概念来看香奈儿5号,她是成功的。香奈儿5号的确十分强烈,但是它对大多数女人来说确像一记耳光,因为给人的感觉并非愉悦。要人为一记耳光陶醉,有点难。
香奈儿5号采用多种高级香精与乙酸酯混合而成,在当时还没有人敢于挑战合成香水,也的确叫人耳目一新。它的前调是醛香,湿草味、茉莉香。但茉莉的香味完全被醛香覆盖了,刺鼻是最初的感受。中调里的玫瑰被依兰、鸢尾弄得很模糊,更因为“耳光”似的前调关系它们变得很弱势。基调中的天竺薄荷也失去了清醒的滋味……基本上,它几乎没有后调,传闻中的香氛持久是不存在的。它像足了一记耳光,打完就跑,没有回味,只想忘却。
Chanel Chanel origin
Chanel (Cabrielle "COCO" Chanel; 1883-1971) Born in 1883 in the south of France Saumur (SAUMUR) On her birthday a specific, it was said to be on August 19, 1883, Chanel, but I insisted that he was born in the year on August 5 Her life has not always been smooth, she was born into a poor family, is the second child at home, but in that five-year-old mother died of lung disease would be, they never left, even more terrifying is that their father King left them a mysterious disappearance Since then, Chanel started her rough, hard life of the orphanage and left many never known secret
More than a decade after the beginning of Chanel in the desert city of Lin (Moulin), a knitting store clerk when, but also dream of becoming a star, therefore, she also tried to sing a ditty bars At this point, she has come out Chuchudongren, and are subject to a lot of help with the pursuit of the Fujiazaidi Through her first lover, high society Chanel into the circle of communication, and to have the opportunity to get to know many powerful Fujiazidi young celebrities and the arts Later, Gu Bo in love with the businessman, and his strong support of the path of their own success Her design career began in 1908, first in Paris and later in Deauville (France's southern seaside resorts) In 1910, it gave her a cute nickname - "COCO", it now has become an important Chanel brand identification
Deauville in 1913 opened its first Chanel boutiques Since then, her career would be flourishing
In 1916, she launched a woolen sweater, his work was the first time, "Harper market" was published In 1921, in Paris, France Kampen Street (Cambon) - the company that is now the "residence" where the well-known start-up Shop Cambon 31 This year, is also CHANEL No5 (of Chanel No 5 perfume) for the first time come out of the year and achieved unprecedented success, then, in 1924, we set up the CHANEL fragrance of the company
Chanel to design simple, practical and well-known clothing As for the design of women's pants, small Heiqun to hypotenuse and copper buttons modified collarless jacket is her style of "outstanding representatives"
Chanel's tradition of substandard goods, including a variety of exquisite pearls, gold chains, such as cotton bags She likes gold chain as those of the backpack straps CHANEL an election to the backpack with clothes will be any different wonderful effect
Other designers with different, like Chanel, in its jewelry design, man-made plastic and precious stones are really precious stones with use of the same, and that he will use this design concept in the apparel design
In 1939 the outbreak of World War II, during which, Chanel's business has also been severely affected, in addition to Kampen on the 3rd Street can continue to operate, and other shops had to be driven out of business At that time, people can only Kampen on the 3rd Street to buy perfume In this way, until in 1953, Chanel is a 70-year-old, the other shop before re-opening
In 1971, Chanel, passed away unfortunately After their clothing has its assistant Caston Berthelot, Ramon Esparza, Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and others in charge of great design However, the authority of Chanel's "package approach", the company's designers picked up the pace, as well as the CHANEL fashion charm in her brilliant name for the next little bit to fade Finally in 1983, German Field design genius Karl (Karl Largerfeld) took over the "Chanel" is not only a correct grasp of the Chanel design principles and spirit and his unique freedom, arbitrary and easily design CHANEL mentality will design and develop initiatives to the Chanel brand into a powerful dynamic, incredibly so, "Chanel" products look forward the age of two Karl's appointment, had brought about a more CHANEL reputation, such as:
1984 CHANEL fragrance launch "COCO";
1986 Karl Rumsfeld issued by the fashion trends for fall and winter CHANEL won the Gold Award thimble De dor;
In 1987 launched "Premiere" Series watches, and the way Montaigne Montaigne opened its first shop table;
Karl Lagerfeld in 1988 and won the Design Studio CHANEL designer from the United States Association of International Fashion Awards in particular; when Karl Lagerfeld appointed President of CHANEL designer, is proud to have mentioned that they are about 50% Sales from clothing sales Of course, the members of the CHANEL future sales and also very good Such as: in 1995 had estimated that sales of the year is expected to more than 1,000,000,000 US dollars, and in fact was optimistic that its actual sales in 1995 has nearly 20 million Eres 1996 annual sales of its branch in the 60,000,000 francs (equivalent to 12,000,000 US dollars)
CHANEL today's products represent the beautiful, modern and contemporary, "COCO" is to bring people to Langlangshangkou the name of one of a small number of teachers In the near future, and a "Chanel: Woman Ice and Fire," a new book published this love for the allegiance of the people CHANEL, is a Perfect choice
Former French Minister of Culture has been a period of evaluation are as follows: "This century France, there are three names will be forever, Charles de Gaulle, Picasso and Chanel"
It was heard that every woman in their lives, to have a total of Chanel bags Each new quarter, the number of women in the world has become a dream
Chanel (CHANLE) is the first to crack Yan process for the role of decoration added to the design of the handbag brand in such a process under which the birth of the diamond-shaped Check handbag has become a classic of classic, fashion has been The favorite, for Chanel (CHANLE) on a quarterly basis the new handbags, paris biarritz diamond-shaped double-sided zonal Check packs always get the most attention
Yan on the sewing process:
Originated in the 15th century sewing Yan (Quilting) technology was first used to crack the quilt, the numerous sewing techniques through the quilt on the table cloth, cloth, and cotton in the middle of the floor, so that the three-tier firm to secure To put together will not easily move to increase the insulation properties of the quilt In order to aesthetics, Yan also has a variety of sewing pin, S-shaped, semi-circular, cross-shaped and so on and so on Of course, the first crack Yan is special because it features effective until the later emerging as a decorative pattern-based texture However, now most often seen Yan seam or keep warm in winter supplies such as bedding, as well as the down jacket
To crack as Deyan clothing decoration goods are still the most successful to a number of Chanel (CHANLE) President In February 1955, Chanel (CHANLE) introduced a simple design of the generous package, including Yan who used the diamond-shaped decorative sewing techniques for Check-to-earth common purse added to a lot of surface texture and taste, and the gold chain belt pack So that women often need to shake off the past with a handbag activities inconvenient, sought after by many people The package is now referred to as "255 package," which means that its was born in February 1955
导读:斜纹软呢、塔夫绸、乌干纱及丝缎等高级面料是如何与纸艺完美结合水晶、珠片如何在精湛的手工下施展出微妙光色。
摘要: 斜纹软呢、塔夫绸、乌干纱及丝缎等高级面料是如何与纸艺完美结合水晶、珠片如何在精湛的手工下施展出微妙光色。
为你独家揭秘CHANEL高级订制服的幕后天机:斜纹软呢、塔夫绸、乌干纱及丝缎等高级面料是如何与纸艺完美结合水晶、珠片如何在精湛的手工下施展出微妙光色谜底即将一一解开。
32条铺满精美剪纸工艺品的圆柱,84张铺满白色纸花、纸桌布的圆桌,耗费4800工时制作的7000朵手工折纸花朵……CHANEL春夏系列可谓至臻化境,堪称当代高级订制服工艺之巅。在Karl的亲历指导下,Lemarié羽饰工作坊、Lesage刺绣工作坊、Massaro鞋履工作坊强强联手,倾力复兴巴黎传统手工艺的精华之作,一件凝聚了800小时手工制作的刺绣滚边衫裙从此掀开高级订制的“谦逊新时代”。
Lemarié 羽饰工作坊
Karl Lagerfeld选择了工作坊提交的10个刺绣样本,工作坊制作了8款造型。部分款式绣满以人手剪裁、折压或熨压而成的花卉、叶片及花瓣装饰;折压或熨压工序均以人手操作,主料为丝或雪纺,蕾丝表面覆以喷色羽毛。
Chanel的黑白山茶花均以人手剪裁、折压或熨压而成的花卉、叶片及花瓣装饰。短身可拆卸的小斗篷是本季的轴心设计,方角立体的肩部轮廓令人耳目一新。
立体剪裁和手工缝制,从里至外地完美体现高级手工坊的精湛手工。
Lesage 刺绣工作坊
工作坊为春夏系列制作了15款刺绣设计,设计灵感来源于立体漫画书,主要图案为花卉及叶片,部份设计采用蕾丝及丝光棉,全部为珠片刺绣。每朵塑料珠片襟花制作需时400小时,衫裙绣满白色镜面小珠片及丝带滚边,制作需时700小时,白色丝光薄纱裙装,刺绣珍珠、珠片及手工裁制的叶片和花朵装饰,制作需时800小时。
Lesage刺绣坊将喷色羽毛覆以蕾丝薄纱表面
在薄纱面料上手工刺绣蕾丝叶片和花朵
薄纱衫裙的领口,由Lesage刺绣工作坊人手绣满白色镜面小珠片,乌干纱真丝滚边。
Mssaro 鞋履工作坊
令腿部线条更显修长的系带厚底高跟凉鞋 是Massaro鞋履工作坊的设计主题,备有8款物料或颜色变化。在柔软的小羊皮上饰以圆形、菱形打孔,以漆皮或蜥蜴皮制作鞋跟及厚底,而制作此凉鞋款式的困难之处,在于鞋跟由鞋底加固板延伸而出的专业技术。
在柔软的小羊皮上,饰以圆形、菱形打孔也要破费一番工艺。系带厚底高跟凉鞋,令腿部线条更显修长。
解词:什么是高级订制服装
“高级订制”这个概念是从欧洲舶过来的,法国国粹高级时装历史悠久,高级订制起源于19世纪中叶。说到高级定制服装这一概念的由来,就不得不提到“时装之父”查尔斯·弗莱德里克·沃斯。在19世纪之前,裁缝只是按照顾主的要求裁制礼服 ,纯粹是copy顾主的想法。而沃斯将设计的观念引入时装界,并于1858年在巴黎开设了第一家专为顾客度身定制的高级时装店。从此,高级服装就进入了现代生活。
高级订制是时装界的最高境界,是时装设计师也是穿衣者的终极梦想,是对理想生活方式的追求。
“高级订制”之所以与传统的量体裁衣和成衣购买截然不同,其中最关键的一点便在于它赋予顾客的是一个真正个性化、独一无二的设计理念。这一点,正是“高级定制”的魅力所在。人的体型千差万别,购买的成衣很难达到绝对的完美与协调,而服装定制则弥补了这一不足。
巴黎是高级服装的发祥地,全世界高级的定制品牌都集中在巴黎。自1945年起,法国 对高级时装定下了一系列准则,迄今为止只有不到20个公司获权生产高级时装。现在全世界大约有一两千人享受着高级定制时装,其中包括王族公主、财经钜子、影视明星 ……
由于顾客羣相对固定,所以几乎每一个老主顾都拥有自己的人体模特,并经常根据本人体形变化而调整。定制成本昂贵,日装一套的最低价格约为12万美元,晚装一套最底约为4万美元。每一套衣服需要经过6次试装,每一套衣服都有自己的名字……总之,这些极品服装象征着财富和地位。
一、CHANEL 255商品小卡片
品牌:CHANEL
官方价格:37000-44800RMB
由来:CHANEL 255的命名,源于它的诞生日1955年2月。
二、单品小科普
科普1:CHANEL 255的来历与演变
CHANEL 255就是指1955年2月CoCo Chanel设计的这款翻盖包(因其日期,所以后来就以命名为255)。但随着1983年卡尔·拉格菲尔德(Karl Lagerfeld)接手CHANEL(香奈儿)后,255的灵魂被不断添加的新元素发扬光大。时至今日,CHANEL255已泛指1955年coco**的原创款,1983年karl接手后的姐妹款Classic Flap,2005年纪念Chanel255诞生50周年的复刻版Reissues,以及CHANEL(香奈儿)出品的所有金属链条翻盖肩背包。这些包包都是大家习惯“CHANEL经典款,也都属于255家族成员。
科普2:CHANEL 255的制造
255手袋共设置了3个内层口袋,最小的一个专门用来放口红,如此考究的细 节设计在当时还很罕见。每个CHANEL 255手袋要经过剪裁、贴合、缝纫、再剪裁、拼接、装上拉链、镶嵌扣眼一系列工序,所有的手袋来自巴 黎附近的一家工厂,除了皮革与内衬的切割以机器完成,其他步骤每一款都需要6个工人手工花费10个小时,经过整整180道工序才能完成。
ChanelNo5 香奈尔No5
诞生年份1921
主题:格拉斯的茉莉及玫瑰,透过乙醛丰富的变化,使No5成为最具女性魁力的化身。对于端庄、典雅、十足女人味的仕女而言,Non5的花香,精致地诠释了女性独特的妩媚与婉约。
香调:乙醛花香调。
前味:科摩尔斯岛的香油树花、格拉斯(Grasse)的橙花、乙醛{AIdehyde)。
中味:格拉斯的茉莉、五月玫瑰。
后味:麦素尔的檀香木、波旁香根草。
品牌名No5的由来:
这是世界上第一瓶以号码命名的香水,当调香师,恩尼斯·波(Ernest Beaux)将多支样品呈给香奈尔女士的时候,香奈尔女士挑中了编号第5的这一种味道,同时,也正因为5是香奈尔女士最喜欢的幸运数字,于是 ,这一瓶举世闻名、流传千古的香水,就这么简简单单地选择了“5号”作为它的名字。最后,就连当时香水的发表日期,都选在当年的5月25日CHANEL第五场的服装发表会同时举行。
No5是Chanel的第一瓶香水,在1921年推出的CHANEL No5是第一瓶款合成花香调香水,灵感来自花束,融合了奢华与优雅,且表现出女性的勇敢与大胆,完全打破了当时香水的传统精神。香奈儿女士崇尚简洁之美,她希望以简单而不花俏的设计为最初诞生的香水作包装—长方体附以俐落线条的香水瓶,如宝石切割般形态的瓶盖,Chanel No5的黑色字眼呈现於白底上。
从玛丽莲·梦露那件著名的睡衣—Chanel No5诞生以来,Chanel的香水始终以高贵优雅的形像深入人心。1956年,还成为纽约大都会博物馆的收藏。直到今天,Chanel No5依然稳坐世界销售冠军的宝座。
香奈儿想必大家都知道,是有名的香水,名牌包包之类的,最有名的当属香水了,喷上去以后,让你当上元气少女,因为它邂逅了柔情的淡淡的香水,有一股淡淡的花香,给人以清新脱俗的感觉,当香奈儿邂逅浓郁的香水,会给人以成熟女人的魅力,让男人想征服的欲望。
而这么使人有魅力的香水,它的创始人GabrielleChanel(加布里埃香奈儿)女士,她的一生是跌宕起伏的,香奈儿出生在法国贫困的四个兄弟姐妹家里,她十二岁母亲就离世了,他的父亲就把她的四个兄弟姐妹扔下了,她就由姨妈抚养成人,很早就很立是了,还学了一手针线技巧,,她二十二岁那年,她当上了咖啡厅歌手,结交了很多名媛,也有开店的能力了。
1910年,她在巴黎开设了一家女装帽,生意是做做的蒸蒸日上,并创造了自己的品牌,与此同时推出了香水,并名为香奈儿,由此,迷人的香水推出了,卖的很火热,后由于二战爆发,就把店关了,找到了自己喜欢的人度过了下半生。
自1983年起,“老佛爷”卡尔拉格斐一直担任香奈儿的设计师,将香奈儿时装推向另一个高峰。至今每一季新品仍以香奈儿精神为设计理念。
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