#每天读一篇服装史第97篇# COCO CHANEL

DESIGNER

COCO CHANEL

Credited with inventing everything from the suntan to the little black dress, “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971) was one of a number of designers, including Jean Patou, who set the tone for informal womenswear

She was a towering fashion figure, expertly anticipating the post-World War I spirit, representing the modernist woman, and adding weight to many trends

Her 1920s and 30s women’s wear developed a cleverly “simple” look that chimed with the sober functionalism of wartime clothes

It embraced relaxed Chanel suits in jersey and tweed, as well as streamlined shift chemises and the LBD (little Black Dress), costume jewelry, wide-bottomed trousers, and signature accessories

MAKING THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS

After a hard start in life, support form wealthy male admirers helped Chanel establish a Parisian millinery business in 1910, followed by shops in the fashionable beach resorts of Deauville and Biarritz

She began experimenting with menswear styles and making women’s garments from jersey, a soft, easily draped fabric

By 1919 she had a booming business in Paris

REINVENTING THE LOOK — LAGERFELD

Chanel was still overseeing her collections when she died, in her 80s, in 1971

The couture house continued and in 1978 the first pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) line was launched

In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld became head of design, raising the brand’s profile globally

That he has found so many fresh ways to mine Chanel concepts proves that Coco had tapped into a timeless purism

设计师

可可 香奈儿

凭借将小黑裙带进人们视野，可可 香奈儿（1883-1971）是那个年代，包括让 巴度在内的，为非正式女装奠定基调的几位设计师之一。

她是一位站在塔尖的时尚人物，特别在预测一次大战精神，代表现代女性，流行趋势增加方面有特殊的作用。

在她手下的二十世纪20与30年代的女性着装，发展出一种巧妙“简洁”的外观造型，并能与当时的战时服装严肃功能主义相结合。

它信奉轻松的针织与斜纹软呢香奈儿套装，以及流线型化妆品与小黑裙，服饰珠宝，宽腿裤以及签名配饰。

走上正轨

在艰难的开始之后，富裕的男性崇拜者帮助香奈儿在1910年建立了巴黎女帽生意，其次是多维尔河比亚里茨海边度假村的时尚店铺。

她开始尝试男装风格，并将运动衫制成女装，利用一种柔软容易裁剪的布料。

到1919年，她在巴黎的生意蓬勃发展。

品牌重塑 — 拉格菲尔德

1971年，80岁的香奈儿在临终之前还在监督她的时装系列。

她的高级时装屋仍然继续运营，1978年第一条成衣线正式开始工作。

1983年，卡尔 拉格菲尔德成为设计负责人，负责提升品牌在全球的地位。

他发现了许多新鲜的方法来挖掘香奈儿的概念，证明可可香奈儿已经陷入了永恒的纯粹主义。

Chanel NO5 Perfume , To make the number 5 be a magic number in the Perfume Circle! It represents a beautiful legend Chanel No5 is the first bottle of Chanel perfume seriesLaunched in 1921, CHANEL No5 was the first synthesis of floral perfumes, and its inspiration was from the bouquet with blend of luxury and eleganceIt show the female brave and bold At the same time, Chanel No5 is the most classic of Chanel perfume, which is a feminine with the modern field of vision, the one and only classic fragrance

Style: Acetaldehyde Floral

First taste: Glass orange flower, acetaldehyde, perfume tree flower

Second taste: Glass jasmine, roses in May

Last taste: located in Mysore sandalwood, Bourbon Vetiver

This perfume packaging is very simple, rectangular parallelepiped with clean lines of the perfume bottle, Chanel No5 black words appear on a white background

From Marilyn Monro the famous pajamas - Chanel No5 since birth, Chanel perfume has always been to the noble and elegant image win support among the people In 1956, also became the Metropolitan Museum in New York Until today, Chanel No5 still holds the world sales champion

BLEU de CHANEL is written between the lines,in the present,entrenched in adventure

First comes this floating veil of Citrus Fruits Orange and lemon trees that will only yield their fruits and scents between the blue of the sky and the sea, in Calabria or Sicily Caught up in this light ，luminous breeze is a zest of Grapefruit，accompanied by Peppermint，Pink Pepper and Nutmeg。A dash of Ginger teases the Grapefruit，heightening its bitterness。From the very beginning，it’s clear that this fragrance will take you where you least expect it

In a few bursts，the opening notes evade traditional constraints and etch out a bolder，more contemporary structure。Spirited，direct and rugged，it is carried by along，fluid move ment that ends，without fail，in the perfec tharmony of the ensemble

The fragrance takes shape as it flows into woodAt its heart lies Cedar its vibrant presence,its dry elegance,its reserved warmth

It appears gracefully，carried by discreet and delicate Jasmine，therefore transcending all genres。Against all conventions，Cedar subtly works its charms，bonding seamlessly with a flawless Vetiver。A few touches of Patchouli and Frankincense lead the way to our destination，a land where the earth and trees are browned by the sun as they bask in the blue summer sky。

This stunning woody-aromatic fragrance conjures up nature in the same way as it interprets masculinity，freely。At CHANEL，everything is，and always has been，founded on freedom。

BLEU DE CHANEL，the letters of its name go so naturally with the midnight blue of the box。Simple，platinum letters，set against an almost-black，navybackground。For Mademoiselle Chanel，this navy was the other color of chic。The wonderful reflection of a fragrance that encapsulates elegance and freedom。

姓名及一产生: 综合介绍

The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Coco Chanel (b1883 - d1971) According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandchildren of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer

Chanel历史:

Chanel (pronounced Shanel) revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular "'Chanel suit'", composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain Wealthy women around the world began to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class

After the phenomenal success of her perfume, No 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike Chanel took to living at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite"

Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys This material is used for clothing and accessories alike The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label

更多历史:

The Coco Chanel Era

Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910 She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality Under her tight reign from 1909-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971

[edit] 1909-1932

In 1909, Chanel opened a millinery shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’, at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris Her hats were worn by famous French actresses who helped establish her reputation Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France Her line of jersey clothing was a reaction to the lifestyle changes surrounding WWI Coal was scarce and women were taking on factory jobs in the men's stead They needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions Her clothes of this time period were also greatly affected by the relatively new idea of women's sports Chanel has continued in that trend, producing sports clothing, accessories, and equipment even more so today

Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for prioritising freedom of movement by not featuring ostentation and redundancy in her designs She affirmed the House’s style of authentic, fluid and comfortable lines She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France, to introduce her other fashion lines

Chanel Headquarters, Place Vendôme, Paris1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No 5 It was internationally popular with women of high society in particular “La Société des Parfums Chanel" was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products Reportedly, the signature scent was a result of her belief in superstitions She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth month [1]

The first Chanel costume jewelery collection was introduced in 1924 Harper’s Bazaar described it as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time”[citation needed]

In 1926, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel created her first tweed suits

Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelery in 1932 dedicated to the diamond Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993

[edit] 1935-1981

In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques

Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house in 1954 Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favourite number: 5 In February 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, named the 255 bag after the month and year of its creation That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur

In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century’

On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in

However, her influence did not pass with her death Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus

商标样式分析以及含义:

The Chanel logotype is an interlocking double-C, one facing forwards the other facing backwards (Originally it was not a logo that Coco Chanel came up with) This derives from the name Coco Chanel "Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel The logotype was not trade-marked until during the first openings of Chanel stores

Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially counterfeit handbags Countries said to be producing great numbers of counterfeit Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand, and China An authentic Chanel handbag retails from around $1,500, while a counterfeit usually costs around $100, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price All authentic Chanel handbags are serialised

Chanel手表:

Creative Director at Chanel Jacques Helleu followed Coco Chanel's credo, having designed the first Chanel watch named 'Premiere' in 1987 The first model of the Chanel J12 watches line was introduced in 2000

In 2005, Chanel designers introduced the J12 line into the area of Fine Jewelry timepieces - they developed the jewelry watch that was equipped with the tourbillon Chanel asked experienced Swiss watchmakers to develop the exclusive 'CHANEL O5-T1' movement

In 2006, the line was joined by Chanel J12 Haute Joaillerie set with 597 baguette-cut diamonds, followed by the creation of the Chanel J12 Tourbillon Haute Joaillerie In 2007, Chanel launched its first J12 GMT model

In 2008, Chanel initiated the partnership with Audemars Piguet, having developed the 'J12 calibre 3125', equipped with an innovative automatic movement - CHANEL AP - 3125, the fusion of the AP 3120 movement and Chanel 'J12' ceramic[2]