时装业是否对社会和环境有害？

用塑料瓶做衣服，听起来似乎是个实验性议题。

但就在上周，优衣库宣布与日本化工公司东丽（TORAY）合作，利用可回收塑料瓶制作聚酯纤维面料，用来生产速干系列。据WWD称，此系列计划于明年春季开始投入生产。

如果这还不能证明优衣库的可持续发展决心，那么2020秋季即将上市的“循环生产羽绒服”则更加排除了其“Green Wash”（“绿色营销”）的嫌疑。毕竟，从回收的旧羽绒服中提取羽绒，再用于制造新品，对于并没有服装回收文化和二手文化的中国市场来说，在销售预估上需要打一个问号。

如果市场表现良好，那么对于整个时装业可持续发展的实操层面来说，将无疑是个振奋人心的举动。

据非营利组织Pure Earth于2016年发布的《全球最污染的10大产业》中，服装相关产业占据两位，分别为排名第4位的制革厂和第10位的染料行业，前3位依次为废旧铅酸电池、采矿/矿石加工和铅熔炼。

在如此的事实基础和各界环保人士的压力下，可持续发展成为时装产业一个绕不开的话题，且不仅局限在服装纺织品或产品本身，而是连接社会道德、文化属性的一整套时尚产业系统。

关于时装业可持续发展演化史，你需要知道这6点

1 60年代“可持续时尚运动”

根据维基百科记录，对于时装业可持续发展的探讨，最早可追溯到上世纪60年代初。在当时甚至形成了一个成体系的“可持续时尚运动”，与“现代环境运动”的起源交织在一起。

1962年，美国生物学家Rachel Carson出版《寂静的春天》一书，被称为“人类环境议题的启蒙之作”，对当今可持续发展议题仍起到非常重要的作用。

2 《布伦特兰报告》

在接下来的半个多世纪中，人类活动对环境的影响被更为系统性地研究，可持续发展也在这个时期被搬上辩论舞台。1987年，由当时出任挪威总理的Gro Harlem Brundtland起草撰写、联合国环境与发展委员会发布的《布伦特兰报告》很好地诠释了这一概念。

3 时尚媒体开始谈论“绿色问题”

90年代的通讯手段限制了大众接收讯息的通道，媒体的报道至关重要。

得益于1990年代初期的联合国环境发展大会，当时被称作“绿色问题”（“green issues”）的环保问题逐渐引起时尚媒体的注意。其中最具代表性的要数对美国两大品牌Patagonia 和Esprit环保问题的报道。品牌所有者在这个过程中目睹了生产过剩和物质消费过剩对环境造成的损害。

4 90年代的Esprit推出环保系列，刊登环保广告

Esprit不仅推出环保系列，还刊登广告，呼吁负责任的消费（这一点在今天的环保公关中仍十分流行）。1991年，Patagonia 和Esprit还共同资助了在加利福尼亚举行的首届有机棉会议。

在接下来的十年间，可持续时尚运动发展扩大，尽管主要重点仍然放在通过纤维和织物加工以及原材料来改善产品对环境的影响上，但品牌所有者注意到了不可持续性的根本原因：指数增长和消费。

5 零皮草时代

但这并不说明原材料就不再重要。恰恰相反，近两年，头部奢侈品牌在“零皮草”方面做出了惊人的努力。

去年9月，奢侈品牌Burberry新任设计总监Riccardo Tisci宣布不再使用皮草，包括Gucci、Micheal Kors、Tom Ford、John Galliano、Masison Margiela、Jimmy Choo和Versace在内的国际头部品牌也都宣布加入零皮草阵营。自2020春夏女装系列开始，旗下包括Prada、Miu Miu、Church's等品牌的Prada集团也全面停用皮草。Chanel也将在现存珍稀皮革制品销售完毕后，正式进入品牌的零皮革时代。

6 G7峰会

时间线拉回到今年8月，G7峰会在法国Biarritz举行。在法国总统Emmanuel Macron的倡导下，包括Chanel、Prada、H&M在内的32家时装公司、约150个品牌在开云集团CEO François-Henri Pinault的牵头下签署了可持续性协议《时尚契约》（Fashion Pact），承诺将采取措施减轻时尚对气候、生物多样性和海洋的危害影响。

争议及丑闻

在时装业的可持续发展进程中，不免伴随争议及丑闻。近在眼前的经济或品牌效益与更为长远的环境效益产生冲突时，并非所有品牌都会选择后者。

BBC于去年7月发布一篇报道，称Burberry在2018财年一共烧掉了价值2860万英镑（约合256亿元人民币）的未售出商品，包括手袋、配饰等皮革制品，以及时装、香水、美妆产品等。

报道一经发出，在社交网络上引发广泛讨论。品牌方回应表示称已经选择了“环保的销毁方式”，且一直在积极寻找回收再利用的途径。

相比之下，2017年爆出的“H&M丹麦焚衣门”事件似乎更让大众震惊。虽然品牌官方称“所焚烧的是一批化学指标不合格的衣服”，但记者随后拿去检验，结果显示并不像H&M官方所说。

作为消费者，是否对时装业污染负有责任？

如果将全部责任推给品牌方似乎有些不妥，作为消费者，对于时装产业对环境可持续发展造成的消极影响，真的一点责任都没有吗？

“存在即合理”的哲学原理下，大批量非必要的服装产品的产出、消耗甚至浪费与消费者的消费决策有直接关联，两者相互牵动并助长。试想，当消费者更加理性，按需消费，生产者按需生产，情况又会怎样？这也直接印证了上世纪末两大美国品牌Patagonia 和Esprit注意到的不可持续性的根本原因：指数增长和消费。

我撰写稿件当日，美国纽约正在举行气候罢工，由Greta Thunberg和“气候罢工青年”联盟发起。摩纳哥亲王Albert II的长女Jazmin Grace Grimaldi作为人权主义者也参与其中。

Jazmin Grace Grimaldi | 由对方提供（Photo by Andrew Wener）

“我曾参加过较小的罢工，但是这次罢工对我来说影响最大。在罢工期间，我与数千人一起从弗利广场（Foley Square）游行到炮台公园（Battery Park）。我们以‘As Sea Levels Rise, Do Will We’的口号行进，引起了很多注意。”Grimaldi对我说。

摩纳哥亲王的长女Grimaldi在美国长大，从小就对环境和气候变化问题充满热情，并拥有个人Jazmin基金会。她父亲的摩纳哥阿尔贝二世亲王基金会（The Prince Albert II of Monaco Foundation）也作为本次气候罢工的一部分。

“我绝对认为，在消费者时代，我们需要对环境的负面影响承担责任，并开始采取积极行动。我尝试只购买知道材料来源的服装，这也是我选择合作对象的标准。”

值得一提的是Grimaldi同时也是Kailash Satyarthi儿童基金会“杜绝童工运动”大使。她认为对时尚行业来说，在生产者责任方面也应赋予更多重视。

环保服装一定不美吗？

如果承认了消费者对时装产业对环境造成的损害负有一定责任，那么下一个问题就是为什么消费者不喜欢环保服装。

时装自诞生之日起，在不同的时代背景下拥有自己的的设计性、艺术性和美感。不可否认的是，由于材料的局限性，大众对环保服装的“刻板印象”就是“丑”的，至少是不美的。

带着皇室光环、经常参加时尚活动的Jazmin Grace Grimaldi阐述了自己的看法。“在纽约居住，我的许多朋友和年轻人都喜欢去二手店购物。在刚刚结束的纽约时装周上，我在Cipriani举行的一场剧院联欢晚会上都穿着从Good Will买的二手衣服，没人知道。我喜欢穿可以改变生活的服装，可持续的服装让我更加迷人。”

包括Stella McCartney在内的设计师们也正想办法驳斥这一观点。Stella McCartney曾在网站上写道，“生态一词不应立即让人联想到燕麦色的时装或尺寸过大或缺乏任何奢侈、美感和细节的服装”。

年轻一代的设计师们更是在他们的环保时装上加入许多高级时装元素。

本月，英国年轻设计师Patrick McDowell受官方邀请，在伦敦时装周Positive Fashion Showcase展出。他将施华洛世奇无法售卖的水晶回收处理，粘贴在工人安全帽上、做成项链首饰。这是他个人的第二个系列，此前曾在赫尔辛基时装周压轴亮相。

Patrick McDowell在伦敦时装周展台 | 由对方提供

“施华洛世奇有很多没有达到标准的水晶，或者消费者退货的水晶无法达到再销售预期。我所做的就是将这些‘退休的’水晶小碎块进行回收，这也是为什么我的作品中的水晶形状大小不一的原因。”McDowell对我解释道。

Patrick McDowell用于鞋上的施华洛世奇回收水晶 | 由对方提供

在服装的面料选择和剪裁上，完全没有传统“环保服装”的影子。“我的很多面料来自于Burberry的废弃服装，它们或要被销毁，或面临垃圾填埋的命运。毛衣的面料则是利用风能和环保染料制作。”

这很有意思地提醒了前文中提到的“ 销毁问题”，或许可以为过量生产品牌提供一种解决问题或应对公关危机的思路。

“在《Glamour UK》上刊登的那条**裤子是我前一个collection中的一件夹克外套改的，最开始也是Burberry的废弃面料。我希望可以做到零浪费。”McDowell在采访结尾这样说道。

时装可持续理想国

欧洲尤其是北欧的环保精神一直作为业内关注标杆，时装产业也不例外。

作为北欧声量最大的时装周，哥本哈根时装周越来越受到全球时尚从业者的关

Chanel：

Chanel SA, commonly known as Chanel (English pronunciation: /ʃəˈnɛl/), is a Parisian fashion house founded by the late couturier Coco Chanel, recognized as one of the most chic in the haute couture Specializing in luxury goods (haute couture, ready-to-wear, handbags, perfumery, and cosmetics among others), the Chanel label has become one of the most recognized names in the luxury and haute couture fashion industry[1] According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer

The company has had many high-profile celebrities as spokesmodels, including Catherine Deneuve (1970s Chanel No5 spokesmodel), Nicole Kidman (early 2000s Chanel No 5 spokesmodel), Audrey Tautou (current Chanel No5 spokesmodel), and most famously, Marilyn Monroe (1950s Chanel No 5 spokesmodel) pictured splashing herself with a bottle of Chanel No 5 The image is certainly the most famous of all Chanel advertisements, and continues to be one of the most popular advertisement photos in the history of marketing, used in countless biographies, and still selling in large quantities as a poster and art piece using Marilyn Monroe as the model[2]

Establishment and recognition: 1909 through 1920s

Coco Chanel early yearsIn 1909, Gabrielle Chanel opened a shop on the ground floor of the Balsan's apartment in Paris - the beginnings of what would later become one of the greatest fashion empires in the world[1] The Balsan home was a meeting place of the hunting elite of France and the gentlemen brought their fashionable mistresses along, giving Coco the opportunity to sell the women decorated hats During this time Coco Chanel struck up a relationship with Arthur Capel, a member of the Balsan men's group[1]

He saw a businesswoman in Coco and helped her acquire her location at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris by 1910[1] There was already a couture shop in the building, and so Coco was not allowed in her lease to produce couture dresses[1] In 1913, Chanel introduced women's sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville and Biarritz, France She detested the fashions of women who came to these resort towns[1] Chanel's designs tended to be simple rather than opulent in look (common haute couture fashion of the Belle Époque)[3] World War I affected fashion Coal was scarce and women were doing the factory jobs that men had held prior to the war; they needed warm clothing that would stand up to working conditions Chanel fossella's designs from this era were affected by the new idea of women's sports During World War I, Coco opened another larger shop on Rue de Cambon in front of the Hôtel Ritz Paris[1] Here she sold flannel blazers, straight linen skirts, sailor tops, long jersey sweaters and skirt-jackets[1] Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for its simplicity In the years 1915 and 1917, Harper's Bazaar mentioned that Chanel's name was "on the list of every buyer"[1] Her boutique at 31 Rue Cambon previewed simple day dress-and-coat ensembles and black evening dresses in lace or jet-embroidered tulle (she also piled cushions of feathers, fur and metallic fabrics on the sofas in the gray and amber salons)[1]

Coco Chanel established her reputation as a meticulous fashion couturier[1] Following the fashion trends of the 1920s, Chanel produced beaded dresses[1] The suit in two or three pieces created in 1920 remains a modern fashion look The suit was advocated as the "new uniform for afternoon and evening as far back as 1915" 1921 saw the introduction of her first perfume Chanel No 5[1] Earnest Beaux created the fragrance for Coco and she named it after her lucky number 5[1] The fragrance was a success The signature scent was a result of her belief in superstitions She was scheduled to show her collection on the fifth day of the fifth month[4] Coco informed Harper's Bazaar, "simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance", in 1923[1]

[edit] Parfums Chanel: the late 1920s

Chanel No5 introduced in 1921Parfums Chanel[5] was founded in 1924 by Pierre Wertheimer to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products[5] Theophile Bader (founder of the successful French department store Galeries Lafayette) introduced Coco to Wertheimer[5] Wertheimer retained 70% of Parfums Chanel, while Bader retained 20%, and Coco a modest 10%[5] Coco was forced to operate her couture business apart from Parfums Chanel[5] In 1924, Coco also introduced her first costume jewelry which were a pair of pearl earrings, one black, one white[1] Along with the success of her haute couture business, Coco expanded her "social desirability and her personal legend"[1] A new love interest in her life was the Duke of Westminster[1] She introduced her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and in 1926, the ‘little black dress,' and a tweed, inspired by visits to Scotland Soon, Coco operated a boutique near the renowned Louvre[5]

As the couture Chanel and Parfums Chanel gained success, business relations between Coco and Pierre were sour[5] She resented the partnership with Pierre Wertheimer and believed she deserved more than 10% of the profits, and believed that the Wertheimers were exploiting her talents for their own personal gain[5] Wertheimer reminded Coco that he had funded her venture, and that he had made her a wealthy woman[5]

Coco hired René de Chambrun as her attorney for renegotiating the terms with the Wertheimers[5] but this failed The youngest model she hired was a teenager from her area, Meredith Annaline

[edit] Chanel and Nazi affiliation: 1930s through 1950s

Evening couture dresses from Chanel evolved into an elongated feminine style[1] Summer dresses had contrasting scintillating touches (eg rhinestone straps and silver eyelets)[1] Coco designed a line for petite women in 1937[1] Throughout the 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli was competing more strongly with the House of Chanel, but this was only a short term rivalry Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewelry in 1932 dedicated to the diamond Several of the pieces, including the "Comet" and "Fountain" necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993 When World War II began in 1939, Coco Chanel retired and moved into the Hôtel Ritz Paris with her new beau, Nazi officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage[1][3][5] Only her parfums and accessories were sold in her existing boutiques

When France fell under the control of Adolf Hitler's Nazi Germany in 1940, the Nazis made the Ritz their French headquarters[1] Pierre Wertheimer and his family fled to the United States in 1940, and before Coco could take control of Parfums Chanel, Wertheimer made an "Aryan proxy" for the company[5] Rumors spread that Coco was on good terms with the Germans[1] Chanel biographer Edmonde Charles-Roux states that German intelligence sent her to "visit Winston Churchill as a part of a secret peace mission Coco Chanel was arrested immediately after the liberation of France and charged with abetting the Germans, but Churchill intervened on her behalf and she was released"[5] When France was liberated after the fall of the Nazi Empire, many French people meted out punishments to French women who were believed to have collaborated with the Nazis Coco Chanel was without a doubt a target after the rumors, and so she fled to Switzerland[1][5]

In Coco's absence, Pierre Wertheimer returned to Paris to control Wertheimer family holdings[5] Out of spite, Coco created her own collection of perfumes Wertheimer felt his legal rights were infringed, but he wanted to avoid a legal battle and settled with Coco by giving her $400,000 USD, 2% royalty from all Chanel products, and gave her limited rights to sell her own perfumes in Switzerland[5] Coco stopped making perfumes after the agreement She sold the complete rights to her name to the Wertheimers for Perfumes Chanel, in exchange for a monthly stipend The stipend supported her and her friend, von Dincklage[5]

[edit] Chanel's comeback: 1950s through 1970s

Chanel returned to Paris in 1953[1] to find that fashion designer Christian Dior now dominated the couture market[1] Coco re-approached Pierre for business advice and financial back-up[5] In return, he gained complete rights to all products stamped with the name "Chanel"[5] Their re-collaboration paid off as Chanel became the top label in fashion again[5] Chanel re-introduced the "Chanel suit"[3] and introduced the Chanel chain handled quilted leather handbags in February 1955 (The date is used as the name of the recently re-released bag, 255),[1] and her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur (which has also been marketed under the name "A Gentleman's Cologne") Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar at the 1957 Fashion Awards in Dallas Pierre bought Badar's 20% share of the perfume business, giving his family 90%[5] Pierre's son Jacques Wertheimer took his father's place in 1965[5] Coco's attorney Chambrun called the now-gone-relationship as "one based on a businessman's passion for a woman who felt exploited by him"[5] He told Forbes, "Pierre returned to Paris full of pride and excitement [after one of his horses won the 1956 English Derby] He rushed to Coco, expecting congratulations and praise But she refused to kiss him She resented him, you see, all her life"[5]

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel died on January 10, 1971 at the age of 87[1] She was still "designing, still working" at the time of her death[1] For example, she designed the uniforms for Olympic Airways flight attendants (1966-1969), followed by Pierre Cardin Olympic Airways was then one of the most luxurious air carriers, owned by the Greek shipping-magnate Aristotle Onassis After her death, leadership of the company was handed down to Yvonne Dudel, Jean Cazaubon and Philippe Guibourge[1] The House continued average success, and Jacques Wetheimer bought the entire House of Chanel[1][5] Critics stated that during his leadership, he never paid much attention to the company as he was more interested in horse breeding[5] In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was designed when Coco Chanel was alive 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories

Alain Wertheimer, Jacques son, took over in 1974[1][5] Back in the US, Chanel No5 was seen as a passe perfume[5] Alain revamped Chanel No5 sales by reducing the number of outlets carrying the fragrance from 18,000 to 12,000 He removed the perfume from drugstore shelves, and invested millions of dollars in advertisement for Chanel cosmetics This ensured a greater sense of scarcity and exclusivity for No5, and sales rocketed back up as demand for the fragrance increased[5] Looking for a designer who could bring the label to new heights, he persuaded Karl Lagerfeld to end his contract with fashion house Chloé

[edit] Post-Coco through today

[edit] The coming of Lagerfeld

In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus In 1983, Lagerfeld took over as chief designer for Chanel[5] He changed Chanel's fashion lines from the old lines to shorter cuts and eye capturing designs During the 1980s, more than 40 Chanel boutiques were opened up worldwide[5] By the end of the 1980s, these boutiques sold goods ranging from $200-per-ounce perfume, $225 USD ballerina slippers to $11,000 USD dresses and $2,000 USD leather handbags[5] Rights to Chanel cosmetics and fragrances were held by Chanel only and not shared with other beauty producers and distributors[5] As Lagerfeld took charge as chief designer, other designers and marketers for Chanel worked on keeping the classic Chanel look to maintain the Chanel legend[5] Chanel marketer Jean Hoehn explained, "We introduce a new fragrance every 10 years, not every three minutes like many competitors We don't confuse the consumer With Chanel, people know what to expect And they keep coming back to us, at all ages, as they enter and leave the market"[5] The launch of a new fragrance in honor of the late Coco Chanel, Coco, in 1984 maintained success in the perfumery business with Chanel[5] In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut By the end of the decade, Alain moved the offices to New York City[5]

[edit] In the 1990s

Chanel's boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, CaliforniaThe company earned the place as a global leader in fragrance maker and marketing in the 1990s[5] Heavy marketing investment increased revenue[5] The success of the Maison de Chanel brought the Wertheimer family fortune to $5 billion USD[5] Product lines such as watches (retailing for as much as $7,000 USD), shoes, high-end clothes, cosmetics and accessories were expanded[5] Sales were hurt by the recession of the early 1990s, but Chanel recovered by the mid-1990s with further boutique expansion[5] 1990 saw the launch of ĹŹ As the business trend was going about (buying up other fashion companies), Chanel—like Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Prada -- bought up numerous companies[5] The House acquired Les Broderies Lemarié (a renown feather and flower craftshouse which provided embroidery for the haute couture industry),, A Michael et Cie, and Lesage[5] Chanel was also rumored to also buy the company Massaro[5]

By 1996, Chanel bought gunmaker Holland & Holland It attempted to revamp the guns maker but did not succeed[5] 1996 also greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men's version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998 Better success came with the purchase of Eres (a renowned swimwear label) The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRÉCISION in 1999 That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames

[edit] 2000 through today

While Alain Wertheimer remained chairman of Chanel, CEO and President Françoise Montenay was to bring Chanel into the 21st century[5] 2000 saw the launch of the first unisex watch by Chanel, the J12, a style whose clean cuts and fusion of masculine and feminine elements formed a revolutionary watch, and a supposed cult-following in certain circles In 2001, Bell & Ross was purchased (a watchmaker) The same year, Chanel boutiques offering only selections of accessories were opened in the United States[5]

A Chanel boutique in Prince's Building, Central, Hong Kong2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour The House of Chanel also founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld It is now traditionally presented each December In July 2002, a jewelry and watch flagship store was opened on the upscale Madison Avenue[5] Within the months, a 1,000sqft shoes and handbags boutique was opened next door to the Jewelry and watches flagship[5] Out of everything that happened in 2002, the most shocking was the rumor circulating the fashion world, suggesting that Chanel was considering a merger with the renown luxury goods Parisian fashion company Hermès[5] This would make Chanel and Hermès one of the most powerful fashion companies in the world the likes of Moët-Hennessy • Louis Vuitton This brought the store count in the US to 25 locations nationwide[5]

To please its younger followers, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an "In-Between Wear" in 2003 That same year saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second shop on rue Cambon Continuing an influence in the Asian market, the House of Chanel opened a new 2,400 Square feet boutique in Hong Kong and paid nearly $50 million USD for a building in the classy and upscale shopping district of Ginza in Tokyo, Japan[1]

[edit] Influence on fashion and popularity

Chanel Headquarters, Place Vendôme, ParisCoco Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by replacing the traditional corseted silhouette with the comfort of simple suits and long, lean dresses[citation needed] The years of the 1920s and 1930s will best be remembered as the era of Coco whose simpler lines of women's couture led to the popular "flat-chested" look of the 1920s[3][6] Her clothing was relaxed and changed the way women dressed for outdoor leisure Coco omitted corsets, liberating women and creating more comfort[3] Contemporary Fashion states, "She dressed the modern woman in clothes for a lifestyle"[3] Coco is credited for making jersey (a soft elasticated knit used for undegarments) a new fashion fabric[3] Her jersey dresses in navy and gray were cut to flatter the figure rather than to emphasize and distort the natural body shape[3] These dresses were highly popular by wealthy women, and so she extended her range with them being manufactored by Rodier[3] Chanel also incorporated ideas from male wardrobe into her designs[3]

She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry, including the ever popular Chanel suit, composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces[1][3] The hem of the suit is weighted down with a chain Wealthy women around the world began to flock to her 31 Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her[1] The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name "Chanel" became synonymous with elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class[1][5] After the phenomenal success[1][3][5] of her perfume, Chanel No 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike The financial gain from the fragrance also helped her company during difficult years[3]

Overall, Chanel has touched many American and European fashion designers for her pioneering search for originality and simple perfection[3] They "continue to re-inforce her concept of uncomplicated classics that inspire many contemporary designers' ready-to-wear collections -- an homage to Chanel's essential modernist styling and her legacy to the world of fashion[3]

Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric and leather which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong It was inspired by the jackets of jockeys This material is used for clothing and accessories alike The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, was one of the most desired bags of the moment Chanel still is popular because it mixes the trends of today with the class and simplicity it had when it first opened The brand is currently headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who also designs for the House of Fendi, as well as his namesake label

不知你要哪个品牌，写详细的字数就不够写其他品牌了

1、黛安·克鲁格

代言魅力香水

黛安·克鲁格（DianeKruger），1976年7月15日出生于德国下萨克森州阿尔格米森，德国模特、演员。Diane Kruge是优雅与美丽的化身，更是国际**界炙手可热的女星。由于被她的都市感以及艺术背景所吸引，自1996年起，香奈儿邀请黛安·克鲁格为魅力香水拍摄广告。2007年，她成为Paris Biarritz手袋系列的缪斯。

2、凡妮莎·帕拉迪丝

Coco香水的代言人

凡妮莎·帕拉迪斯，1972年12月22日出生于法国，法国女演员、歌手 。Vanessa Paradis一直都是老佛爷 Karl Lagerfeld的最爱，在1992年她首次成为CHANEL美妆产品的代言人，一直以来她都是Chanel品牌的忠实粉丝，2004年她又再次出现在Ligne Cambon手提包大片中。

3、芭芭拉·帕尔文

2011春夏时装周为香奈儿走秀

芭芭拉·帕尔文，1993年10月8日出生在匈牙利首都布达佩斯。匈牙利时装模特，演员。超模Barbara是被各个大牌所争抢的模特之一，在2011春夏时装周中，芭芭拉·帕尔文为香奈儿等17个品牌走秀，更是多次登上各大时装杂志的头条，数不胜数的时尚大片也将这位匈牙利模特推到了时尚的尖端。姣好的容颜成为香奈儿美白系列的不二人选。

4、吉赛尔·邦辰

“全能防护BB霜Les Beiges”的全球代言人

吉赛尔·邦辰，1980年7月14日生于巴西南里奥格兰德州霍里宗蒂那城[1] ，巴西超模、演员。1996年，吉赛尔·邦辰开始了自己的模特生涯。1999年，参加在纽约金融区举办的维多利亚内衣展示会。并获得1999年度VH1/Vogue年度最佳模特。2004年，吉赛尔·邦辰在影片《出租车女王》中饰演角色。

5、纳塔利·沃佳诺娃

前香奈儿时尚代言人

纳塔利·沃佳诺娃，1982年出生，俄罗斯模特、演员、慈善家 。代表作品有《完美女人》等。2013香奈儿CHANEL全球总部宣布，超级名模吉赛儿邦臣Gisele Bundchen将担任彩妆新品「全能防护BB霜Les Beiges」的全球代言人！以全新诉求及独特妆效，搭配吉赛儿邦臣Gisele Bundchen的代言，再掀起一波底妆新热潮。

DESIGNER

COCO CHANEL

Credited with inventing everything from the suntan to the little black dress, “Coco” Chanel (1883-1971) was one of a number of designers, including Jean Patou, who set the tone for informal womenswear

She was a towering fashion figure, expertly anticipating the post-World War I spirit, representing the modernist woman, and adding weight to many trends

Her 1920s and 30s women’s wear developed a cleverly “simple” look that chimed with the sober functionalism of wartime clothes

It embraced relaxed Chanel suits in jersey and tweed, as well as streamlined shift chemises and the LBD (little Black Dress), costume jewelry, wide-bottomed trousers, and signature accessories

MAKING THE RIGHT CONNECTIONS

After a hard start in life, support form wealthy male admirers helped Chanel establish a Parisian millinery business in 1910, followed by shops in the fashionable beach resorts of Deauville and Biarritz

She began experimenting with menswear styles and making women’s garments from jersey, a soft, easily draped fabric

By 1919 she had a booming business in Paris

REINVENTING THE LOOK — LAGERFELD

Chanel was still overseeing her collections when she died, in her 80s, in 1971

The couture house continued and in 1978 the first pret-a-porter (ready-to-wear) line was launched

In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld became head of design, raising the brand’s profile globally

That he has found so many fresh ways to mine Chanel concepts proves that Coco had tapped into a timeless purism

设计师

可可 香奈儿

凭借将小黑裙带进人们视野，可可 香奈儿（1883-1971）是那个年代，包括让 巴度在内的，为非正式女装奠定基调的几位设计师之一。

她是一位站在塔尖的时尚人物，特别在预测一次大战精神，代表现代女性，流行趋势增加方面有特殊的作用。

在她手下的二十世纪20与30年代的女性着装，发展出一种巧妙“简洁”的外观造型，并能与当时的战时服装严肃功能主义相结合。

它信奉轻松的针织与斜纹软呢香奈儿套装，以及流线型化妆品与小黑裙，服饰珠宝，宽腿裤以及签名配饰。

走上正轨

在艰难的开始之后，富裕的男性崇拜者帮助香奈儿在1910年建立了巴黎女帽生意，其次是多维尔河比亚里茨海边度假村的时尚店铺。

她开始尝试男装风格，并将运动衫制成女装，利用一种柔软容易裁剪的布料。

到1919年，她在巴黎的生意蓬勃发展。

品牌重塑 — 拉格菲尔德

1971年，80岁的香奈儿在临终之前还在监督她的时装系列。

她的高级时装屋仍然继续运营，1978年第一条成衣线正式开始工作。

1983年，卡尔 拉格菲尔德成为设计负责人，负责提升品牌在全球的地位。

他发现了许多新鲜的方法来挖掘香奈儿的概念，证明可可香奈儿已经陷入了永恒的纯粹主义。